Thursday, 25 January 2007

elegantly dressed, innuit













here is Nanook, trying to claw his way into Seven Sisters station in a beautiful sealskin coat and some really sensible mittens, unlike my fingerless ones

Yesterday was too much of a fuss to write anything. I was frankly knackered from the effort of everyday survival. That's what it's like in the frozen north.

To recap: when we awoke, London was shimmering whitely under a one-inch coating of light snow. It sat on the tree branches, it sat on the cars, it sat on the roofs, and it sat - perhaps most of all, in retrospect - on the points, wherever the Underground goes over the ground.

Dear old London doesn't cope very well with this kind of stuff: even in its article blasting the London Underground bosses for incompetence, the Standard referred to our modest inch of snow as "extreme weather." But really - do the services all think that in other countries the snow juat manages itself? There was not a single speck of sand or salt on Hackney's roads, not one truck, not one municipal worker out to make the borough's surfaces passable. By the time I left the house at 8.15 all the tiny little Hassidic kids were slipping all over the place in a half-inch of very slippy slush. But I made it to the bus.

Seven Sisters station was packed. It was a sea of people, unmoving. Well, they were undulating slightly, as sea plants will. But not going anywhere. The barriers were closed and a voice repeatedly announced that the platforms were too full and thet they were "holding people in the ticketing area." And, one couldn't help noticing, in the corridor areas leading to the street. I stood around for a bit, and then had a sudden forceful image of the gates opening and the crowd surging down to the tube, as one crushing entity. I left. (And 30 seconds behind me a tidal wave of at least fifty people surged out after me: they must have shut the station or made an announcement or something.)

So everybody in the vicinity was heading for the 279 bus. It goes to Manor House station! I jumped on it - by a miracle - and for the next next age and a half, as we creaked to a halt at bus stop after bus stop where dozens of people all waited resiliently, and then couldn't get on the bus because none of my fellow passengers would shift their sorry butts to move down and make room, I wrote, in my head, a post about how people have no idea how to behave on public transport. All the types. I won't list them all here.

This occupied me along the meandering ride through Tottenham, down the broken down escalator in Manor House and for a long, long time on the glacial-speed Piccadilly Line - where a fat man in a navy blue pinstripe suit (with stripes about 2cm apart), a big black jumper and a cheap camel coat stood in the space of three people, holding on to the overhead bars on both sides! so that he, his newspaper and his belly dominated the communal space in the manner of a tenth-rate local gangster, while a pregnant girl stood behind him, squashed. Oh, etc. All the way to Green Park.

I didn't change back on to the Victoria Line. I got out while I could. There's a Prêt à Manger (full name edited in with accents etc for readers abroad) right there, and the park had that sort of snow-muffled sound you get, and everything was white or grey and magical. The few people who were walking through the middle of it looked indistinct, just dark shapes: the environment took over. I walked into the park with my coffee - by now ludicrously late for work - thinking to walk across it. But in the strangeness I lost my bearings! I could have done it, of course - Buck House was just over the way - but the footpaths all looked the same, and there was a sudden sense of those London trudges, and nobody wants one of those. So I went back up and hopped onto a 38 bus, which whisked me in five minutes flat to the Prêt at Victoria. Hurrah!

And it had only taken two hours!

14 comments:

Anonymous said...

What's a "Pret", Katy? I can't find this word in any dictionary.

Anonymous said...

What's a "Pret", Katy?

Ms Baroque said...

Francis, I've suddenly realised I have no idea where you live. It is a Prêt à Manger, which is a place where frozen, exhausted cross-metropolitan travellers can get a coffee. Or, in my case, a coffee and a croissant. Nanook would have loved it.

Mind you, when it started out it was just a nice little food place with really fresh sandwiches; now it is 49% owned by MacDonalds. But the coffee is still about 5 times better than Starbucks. I favour Caffe Nero, give the choice.

Anonymous said...

Ah, so it's basically a café. I have one of those near where I live. They do a fantastic sausage, egg and beans.

nmj said...

Ms Baroque, Am amused that you describe the obnoxious pinstripes as 2cm apart, is 2cm significant?! Be assured that they don't grit things up here either until it's too late, and I still remember when I was at uni in eighties, one very wintry mornning no trains were running cos 'a badger was frozen on the line'.

Ms Baroque said...

Francis, it's worse than that: it's a chain.

NMJ, why do you think they call them wideboys?

nmj said...

Ah, the wider the stripe, the wider the boy . . .

Pants said...

I can't remember the last time I was held in a ticketing area. I seem to remember it was very romantic though.

Ms Baroque said...

ooo-er, missus - & how wide were his stripes?

Erin O'Brien said...

Hello. Erin O'Brien here. I'm broadcasting from Cleveland, Ohio, USA. We have exact phrases for describing the weather here. Today it is "colder than a brass monkey's pecker" and I'm pretty sure you understand that without any elaboration. There's about 8 inches of snow. (There is undoubtedly any number of phrases to describe "8 inches" but I'm sort of tired, okay?)

Very few activities are appropriate for this type of weather and some aren't very polite, at least not polite enough to be talking about on an otherwise charming blog.

Okay, think I'll go engage in an impolite colder-than-a-brass-monkey's pecker Cleveland activity.

Erin O'Brien apologizes for being Erin O'Brien and leaving incoherent comments on coherent blogs. Letters to Erin O'Brien should be sent to Erin O'Brien in care of Erin O'Brien at the expense of Erin O'Brien. Erin O'Brien will address all letters to Erin O'Brien immediately, if not sooner. Erin O'Brien really needs a lot of help.

Meredith Jones said...

A lovely post. Makes me miss London, really! I've been enjoying your blog for a month or so, and have mentioned you here - http://marrickvillia.blogspot.com/

Kevin said...

It'd been a while since i saw snow.

Morgan said...

If it ain't Baroque, don't fix it! (Bet you've heard that one before).

I love finding quality London bloggers. Few people in the city really seem to connect or discuss in any depth our shared experiences (similarly, people who smile at others on the tube being described as 'total freaks!'). This is as we all sit not talking, reading the same stories about extreme weather in the London Paper. The letters page is as close as I get to feeling like a part of something.

Ms Melancholy said...

For a nation that is entirely obsessed with the weather, we are appallingly bad at dealing with it, aren't we?